It’s Fresh: Golden review
October 29, 2022
In a triangle-shaped building on the corner of Genesee and Washington Streets, a few minutes walk from Robert Brvenick’s Center for Business Education at Utica University, Jeff Golden is putting his own twist on classic diner dishes.
At 16 years old, Jeff Golden began his culinary career with an apprenticeship at the chicken riggies’ claimed kitchen-of-origin, where he realized he, too, wants to leave a culinary mark in Utica.
His experience includes being in charge of a staff of 400 at the Turning Stone Resort Casino and heading a staff of 250 at Hamilton College and Colgate, among other restaurants. Spurred by a hatred for the corporate cooking world of pre-cooked food with no flavor, Golden’s was born.
“I don’t hold back,” Golden said.
Golden has a simple formula. He starts every morning sourcing the freshest ingredients and making a fresh batch of English muffins.
His breakfast sausage has a Golden twist: it tastes more like chorizo than “what everyone else is serving.” His yogurt bowls, crepes, and omelets really offer something for any patron.
I came at noon, ordered a G-mac, and sat among the other diners.
“I’m going with the Georgealicious,” a customer calls out.
Another orders a Smashburger.
Golden serves his burgers with house fries tossed in popcorn salt, lemon, and turmeric.
In addition to his decadent breakfast and lunch menu, from the cannoli strawberry stuffed French toast and cornbread bubble waffles to the burgers and vegan Fridays, Golden has served dishes from Cambodia, Ethiopia, India, Vietnam, Poland and Mexico.
The ‘stationary food truck,’ as he calls it, is smaller than food trucks he’s previously worked in, but he makes the one-man-show work.
As soon as you walk in, you’re in the kitchen with Golden cooking behind the counter.
Ask him for some cooking tips, or when and where to forage for wild onions or mushrooms. Ask him for his quick-pickle recipe. Ask him about what he’s making with the bottle of Bacardi under the condiment shelf.
Golden doesn’t keep culinary secrets.
Find Jeff Golden sharing stories and making good food Monday through Friday between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. on the triangle corner of Genesee.